Food and fairs
Farmers markets and ferias
Where to buy food straight from whoever grew it, plus the old market halls and the fairs worth planning a Sunday around. Days, hours and addresses were checked against a live official page for each one, and they can change with the season, so glance at the link before you go.
City tourism board on the Feria de Mataderos
8 markets
Belgrano
Mercado de Belgrano
Neighbourhood marketAv. Juramento y Ciudad de la Paz · Belgrano
Fresh produce Monday to Saturday 8:30 to 20:00 · food stalls daily 11:00 to 00:00
Open for around 130 years on land given by the heirs of José Hernández, and still where Belgrano does its real shopping: butchers, greengrocers, fishmongers and a very good cheese counter. A restoration between 2017 and 2019 added an outdoor food patio and an open air terrace. Come for the produce in the morning, stay for lunch.
Chacarita
El Galpón · Centro Comunal de Abastecimiento
Organic & agroecologicalAv. Federico Lacroze 4171 · Chacarita
Wednesdays and Saturdays, 9:00 to 18:00
The closest thing the city has to a proper farmers co-op: small producers of agroecological fruit, vegetables, dairy, honey, breads and pantry goods selling straight to the people who eat them. Prices are set around fair pay for the grower rather than the shelf, and the shed feel is part of the charm. Bring your own bags and go early on Saturdays.
Colegiales
Mercado de Pulgas
Flea marketAv. Álvarez Thomas y Dorrego · Colegiales
Tuesday to Sunday
A huge covered shed with around 150 stalls of furniture, paintings, marble, bronze, glass, silverware, porcelain, records and instruments, plus a row of craftspeople on Enrique Martínez. Several stalls also restore, polish and re lacquer furniture. Go with time: it is the city's best place to furnish a flat with things nobody else has.
Mataderos
Feria de Mataderos
Crafts & foodAv. Lisandro de la Torre y Av. de los Corrales · Mataderos
March to December, Sundays 11:00 to 19:00
The full name is the Fair of Argentine Crafts and Popular Traditions, and on Sundays the whole neighbourhood turns into one. Hundreds of stalls with silverwork, mates, ponchos, blankets and leather, plus empanadas, locro, tamales and meat on the asador. Free folk workshops, guitar, dance, weaving, and a stage with musicians from all over the country. It is suspended when it rains.
San Nicolás
Mercado de San Nicolás
Neighbourhood marketAv. Córdoba 1750 · San Nicolás
Fresh produce Monday to Saturday 8:00 to 20:00 · food stalls 11:00 to 22:00
A 1905 market reopened in 2019 with 60 percent more stalls, fresh produce, a healthy food stand and a bright food court under a ceiling of coloured umbrellas. It sits among offices and universities, so it fills up at lunchtime and there is coworking space upstairs. Handy and cheerful rather than historic.
San Telmo
Mercado de San Telmo
Historic marketDefensa y Carlos Calvo · San Telmo
Every day, 9:00 to 20:00
Opened in 1897 and a National Historic Monument since 2000, with the original iron columns, glass roof and central dome still in place. Old fruit and vegetable stands sit next to antique dealers, spice sellers and some of the best quick eating in the Casco Histórico. Busy and touristy on Sundays, much calmer midweek.
Feria de San Pedro Telmo · Plaza Dorrego
Antiques & artHumberto 1° 400 y Plaza Dorrego · San Telmo
Sundays
Running since 1970, started by the Museo de la Ciudad: antique dealers around the cobbles of Plaza Dorrego, a sophisticated flea market in the open air. A few metres away, on Humberto 1°, more than forty artists show paintings, prints, photography and sculpture, and the Patio de Tango happens on the plaza every Sunday.
Varios barrios
Sabe la Tierra
Producer marketsMercados semanales en más de 10 barrios · Varios barrios
Weekly, changing barrio by barrio, check the schedule
A non profit network of producer markets running for more than fifteen years, now in over ten barrios each week, and the Argentine member of the World Farmers Market Coalition. Producers are selected rather than renting a stall, so you get seasonal food, natural cosmetics and small makers, straight from whoever made it. Their site lists which market is on where this week.