City heritage
Historic bookshops
Buenos Aires reads in public, and some of these shops have been open for two centuries. Antiquarian corners, café bookstores and the Corrientes stretch that stays open past midnight. Every address and link was checked against a live page.
The city on the bookshops of Corrientes
12 bookshops
Balvanera
Librería Hernández
Av. Corrientes 1436 · Balvanera
More than seventy years on the theatre stretch of Corrientes, with new and discounted titles stacked floor to ceiling. It is the classic stop for anyone walking the avenue late. Busy, dense, unmistakably porteño.
Monserrat
Librería de Ávila
Adolfo Alsina 500 · Monserrat
The oldest bookshop in the city, on a corner that has been selling books since 1785, when a pharmacy called La Botica started stocking them. Today it deals in antique and secondhand books, old maps and prints, in a 1926 building a block from the Casco Histórico. Creaky floors, low light, closer to a living museum than a shop.
Palermo
Libros del Pasaje
Thames 1762 · Palermo
A bookshop and café where people stay for coffee and cake between the shelves. Fiction, art and children's books, plus author talks and small shows. Warm and unhurried, more living room than store.
Eterna Cadencia
Honduras 5582 · Palermo
Open since 2008 in an old Palermo house that holds a bookshop, a publishing house and a bar in the back garden. Tens of thousands of titles, with readings and literary nights in the patio. Relaxed, slightly overgrown, a house taken over by books.
Recoleta
El Ateneo Grand Splendid
Av. Santa Fe 1860 · Recoleta
A 1919 theatre turned bookshop, and one of the most photographed in the world. You browse under the original stage curtain and painted ceiling, with the old boxes turned into reading nooks and a café on the stage itself. Go early if you want it quiet.
Clásica y Moderna
Av. Callao 892 · Recoleta
Bookshop, café and small stage since 1938, and one of the few places that is both a Bar Notable and a working bookstore. Literature and art shelves wrap around the tables, and there is live music and talks most nights. Bohemian and worn in the good way.
Librería Norte
Av. Las Heras 2225 · Recoleta
Opened in 1961 by the poet Héctor Yánover and at this address since 1967, a favourite of poets, critics and teachers. Deep in literature, philosophy and imported editions, chosen by booksellers who actually read them. Intimate and literary, a neighbourhood institution.
Librería Guadalquivir
Av. Callao 1012 · Recoleta
Open since 2002, with a carefully picked stock of Argentine publishers next to editions imported straight from Spain. Readers come for literature, philosophy and criticism that is hard to find elsewhere. Quiet and studious.
Rayo Rojo
Av. Santa Fe 1670, Galería Bond Street · Recoleta
Inside the countercultural Galería Bond Street, three decades of illustration, comics, pulp, film memorabilia and printed matter that fits no category. Stocked by personal obsession rather than catalogue. Eclectic and a bit underground, like the gallery around it.
Retiro
Librería Alberto Casares
Suipacha 521 · Retiro
Founded in 1975 and one of the most respected antiquarian shops in the country: rare first editions, manuscripts, maps and engravings from Argentina and Spanish America. Borges is said to have spent his last Buenos Aires afternoon here in 1985. Formal and hushed, aimed at collectors.
San Nicolás
Poema 20
Esmeralda 869 · San Nicolás
An antiquarian shop with more than twenty years behind it, packed floor to ceiling with old and rare volumes on every subject. Narrow aisles, towers of books, more archive than shop. Worth it if you like digging.
San Telmo
Walrus Books
Estados Unidos 617 · San Telmo
A small secondhand shop of English language books, the go to for travellers and newcomers swapping novels. Named after the creature in Through the Looking Glass, cramped and a little whimsical, very San Telmo. Classics mixed with paperbacks left behind by whoever passed through.